OLD QUARTER ( CASCO VIEJO )
This route takes us right back to the origins of the City of Bilbao and to the beginnings of the trading city, which has now become one of Europe's largest traditional shopping centres.

We set off along the Paseo del Arenal where we find the church of San Nicolás (1), - the patron saint of sailors - built by Ignacio Ibero in 1756. The Semana Grande Bilbaína (literally, 'Bilbao's Big Week') originated with the opening of the church. We carry on towards Plaza Nueva (2) where the people of Bilbao meet up to munch on pintxos (small snacks on a bite-sized piece of bread) washed down with a few txikitos (small glasses of wine). At the end of Calle Libertad lies Plaza de Unamuno . There are a number of directions we can take from here. We can either hike up the 213 steps of the Calzadas de Mallona to reach the Basílica de Begoña (4), the shrine to Our Lady of Begoña, known locally as Amatxu (Mum) or carry on along Calle de la Cruz to the Museo Vasco (Basque Museum) (6) where you can find out a little more about our traditions, history and customs. Alongside the museum stands the Iglesia de los Santos Juanes (6), a church housing a stunning altar dedicated to the Sagrado Corazón (Sacred Heart), the only one of its kind in the world.

The old gateway into the City of Bilbao, the Portal de Zamudio , stands a mere 50 metres away and leads to the first of the original Seven Streets, Calle Somera , and on to the church of San Antón (7), where on the 15 th of June 1300, Diego López de Haro read out the founding charter of the City of Bilbao. Next door stands the Mercado de la Ribera (10), Europe's largest covered market. The route continues along Calle Carnicería Vieja towards the cathedral of Santiago (12), the oldest church (14 th c.) in the City, initially intended as a parish church. One of the streets running alongside the church takes us to the Palacio de John , also known as the Edificio de la Bolsa (13), the only point in the Old Quarter from which you can see the Basílica de Begoña (4). From here, the Calle del Perro leads to Calle Bidebarrieta and the Biblioteca Municipal (City Library) (15), where the El Sitio debating society used to meet. As we near our journey's end we pass the Teatro Arriaga (14), the city's main theatre and one of its most representative buildings, and the Estación Concordia (16), one of the city's train stations, boasting a gorgeous façade dating back to 1902.

THE ENSANCHE OF BILBAO
This route through Bilbao's new district starts in the Plaza de España , alternatively known as the Plaza Circular , home to the statue of the City's founder (19) and the Estación de Abando (38), the train station where many visitors to Bilbao arrive and depart.

This area marks the beginning of the Gran Vía Don Diego López de Haro , the city's main street and artery. We turn off Gran Vía just a few metres down from the square and head briefly along Calle Berástegui to take in one of Bilbao's most beautiful squares, the Jardines de Albia , where palm trees overhang a delightful statue of the writer, Antonio Trueba (20), sculpted by Mariano Benlliure. The statue combines with the church of San Vicente Mártir (16 th c.) (21) to make up one of the city's most pleasant spots. Back on Gran Vía again, and alongside the main offices of the big banks, stand some exceptionally beautiful buildings such as the Bizkaia Regional Government building (23), designed by Luis Aladrén. We continue on to Plaza Moyúa , presided over by some of the city's most representative buildings: Palacio Chávarri (24), notable for the fact that every one of its windows and balconies is different; the Hotel Carlton , which housed the headquarters of the Basque Government during the Spanish Civil War and the eye-catching metro entrances, known as Fosteritos after their designer, Sir Norman Foster. On one of the streets crossing the square ( Alameda Recalde ) stands one of the city's few examples of Art Nouveau architecture, Casa Montero (25), built by Luis Aladrén. Back on Gran Vía once more, we can take two different directions. One route leads to the Sagrado Corazón , a fifty metre-high statue marking the end of Gran Vía. Along the way we can admire the Edificio Sota (28), one of many fine buildings, and also indulge in a little window shopping, taking in the many shops that the world's leading designers have in Bilbao.

The other route leads along the pedestrianised Calle Ercilla to one of Bilbao's main shopping areas, where we can admire classical buildings such as the Casa de los Aldeanos or the Casa de Luis Allende , both on Plaza de Indautxu . If we continue along Alameda Urquijo , we come to the San Mamés stadium (31), known as the cathedral of football.

ABANDO
Our starting point is the Paseo del Arenal , which runs alongside the estuary towards the City Hall (39), the third building to house this municipal institution, built on the site of a former Augustine monastery in 1892. Just opposite the building stands Jorge Oteiza's sculpture, Variante ovoide de desocupación de la esfera ( Ovoid Variant of the Sphere's Inaction ) (2002). Continuing along Campo Volantín , we come to Puente Zubizuri , a footbridge built by Santiago Calatrava. Here a funicular railway runs up Monte Artxanda (40) offering the finest views of the city, the international airport ( La Paloma ) and the mouth of the estuary.

We take the footbridge and cross over to the left bank taking the Paseo de Uribitarte , along which the city's new, environmentally friendly tram runs. Shortly we come to the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (44), the symbol of the city's renaissance, built by the Canadian architect, Frank O. Gehry, and opened in 1997. Two huge sculptures dominate the surrounding area: Mamá , a spider created by the sculptress, Louise Borgoise, and Jeff Koons' Puppy , a beautiful, twelve metre-high, floral dog. Before long we find ourselves in Abandoibarra , an area symbolising Bilbao's urban regeneration. A new footbridge connects the area with the prestigious Universidad de Deusto . We carry on to the Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) (26), Spain's third largest art gallery, boasting a hugely impressive permanent collection and equally exceptional temporary exhibitions. A wander through the Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar (27) leads us to the Palacio Euskalduna de Congresos y de la Música (Euskalduna Conference and Performing Arts Complex) (43), built by the architects, Dolores Palacios and Federico Soriano. Next door stands the Museo Marítimo (Maritime Museum) (42), located underneath the Puente Euskalduna and the senior citizens' home and grounds of the Jardines y la Casa de la Misericordia , designed by Antonio Goicoechea (30).